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The Pushkin Cafe: A Glimpse into Russian Noble Cuisine

Article

Pushkin Cafe

Writer

Yana Karnaukhova

Nestled in the heart of Moscow, the Pushkin Cafe stands as a timeless testament to the opulence and grandeur of Russian cuisine. With its noble decorations and exquisite culinary offerings, this long-standing establishment provides visitors with a captivating glimpse into the extravagant lifestyles of wealthy Russians at the end of the 19th century. From indulgent sturgeon dishes to mouthwatering pies, every detail within the cafe’s walls has been meticulously designed to transport guests back in time.

 

The allure of the Pushkin Cafe extends far beyond its physical presence. More than 50 years ago, the renowned French chansonnier Gilbert Beco embarked on a tour of Moscow. Enchanted by the city’s charm, he penned a song titled “Natalie,” dedicated to his Russian guide, Natalia. In the song, Beco passionately expressed his desire to share a moment in the mythical Pushkin Cafe, where snow gently falls outside the windows while savoring hot chocolate and engaging in conversations about anything but the ordinary. This romanticized vision captured the hearts of many, propelling the idea of a Pushkin Cafe from a poetic fantasy to a tangible reality.

Inspired by Beco’s song, Andrey Dellos undertook the ambitious task of creating an establishment that would resurrect the noble culinary traditions of Russia’s past centuries. On June 4, 1999, the Pushkin Cafe opened its doors on Tverskoy Boulevard, housed within a magnificent Baroque-style mansion. To commemorate the occasion, Gilbert Beco himself performed his iconic song “Natalie,” further cementing the cafe’s connection to its poetic origins.

” Today, this renowned destination brings to life the poetic fantasy of the past, offering a fusion of Russian, French, and European cuisines.”

The history of the building itself adds an extra layer of intrigue to the Pushkin Cafe. In the 18th century, a retired nobleman from St. Petersburg, who had previously served at the court of Catherine II, relocated to Moscow. Desiring a house that would showcase his refined taste, he enlisted Italian architects to construct a mansion that harmoniously blended Russian aesthetics with Baroque motifs. This architectural gem eventually passed into the hands of a German aristocrat, who transformed it into a pharmacy. Thus, a small cafe was born on the ground floor, where patrons waiting for their prescriptions could enjoy medicinal infusions, tea, coffee, and chocolate.

The Pushkin Cafe ‘s menu is a testament to its commitment to preserving and celebrating the noble cuisines of Russia, France, and Europe as a whole. The dishes, listed in the old-fashioned manner, invite guests to embark on a culinary journey filled with intriguing flavors and unique combinations. From the tantalizing “Sea inhabitants, replenished with various vegetables, a handful on green pasta,” to the delicate “Sea crests with trout A la Carpacho, pickled in white wine,” each dish is a work of art on its own. The menu is extensive and diverse, offering tantalizing options such as “Brain bones tre delicacy” and “Duck languished in the oven, mended with sinful porridge and liver for two persons.”

Today, stepping into the Pushkin Cafe is like stepping into a time capsule. Mirrors, intricate moldings, cast iron grilles, and picturesque ceiling lights, adorned with scenes from ancient mythology, transport guests to a bygone era. The house is replete with cultural artifacts from the 19th century, including mahogany floor clocks, barometers, and a library containing over 3,000 volumes spanning from the 18th to the early 20th century. The owner’s fascination with natural sciences is evident in the engravings, globes, microscopes, and telescopes that grace the space.

“The Pushkin Cafe is a journey through time, where culinary delights intertwine with historical splendor.”

The Pushkin Cafe on Tverskoy Boulevard is not just a restaurant; it is an immersive experience that allows guests to step back in time and relish the culinary delights of a bygone era. With its noble decorations, sumptuous cuisine, and historical significance, this iconic establishment continues to captivate locals and visitors alike, offering a glimpse into the lavish world of Russian aristocracy.